Fractionation and Formulation of Face Serum from Citrus hystrix DC. Fruit Peel Extract as Sunscreen and Skin-Lightening
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Keywords:
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Kaffir Lime, Antioxidant, Tyrosinase, Gel, Emulgel
Abstract
While the leaves of C. hystrix are commonly traded as cooking spices, their fruit cannot be consumed and is still a waste from the harvest. Scholars strive to take benefit of this fruit, especially after discovering that the C. hystrix fruit peel extract has better sunscreen and skin-lightening activity than their leaf and pulp extract. Therefore, this study aims to examine the sunscreen and skin-lightening activity of this fruit peel extract fraction, which was formulated as a face serum. The fractionation process began by separating ethanol extract and ethyl acetate extract of peel using column chromatography. The separation of extract fractions was based on Retardation factor (Rf) values. Extract fractions and peel extracts were then tested to observe the sunscreen and skin-lightening activity by calculating the Sun Protecting Factor (SPF), Protection grade UVA (PA), DPPH, and tyrosinase inhibition using the spectrophotometric method. Following that, face serum was formulated as gel and emulgel using chitosan and Carbopol-940 as gelling agents. The results showed that the best extract fraction was presented by fraction-6 of fruit peel ethanol extract (FEEP-6) with an SPF value of 26.790 ± 0.028 and fraction-1 of fruit peel ethyl acetate extract (FEAEP-1) with a PA value of 0.609 ± 0.021. Good extract fraction was also shown in fraction-5 of fruit peel ethanol extract (FEEP-5) with an IC50 value against DPPH and tyrosinase of 159.770 ug/mL and 214.156 ug/mL. FEEP-5 was used in the face serum dosage form with a concentration of 0.05%. All face serum dosages met the physical evaluation requirements. The best SPF and antioxidant values of face serum were presented by F4 of 26.505 ± 0.762 and 61.905 ± 0.571%, while the best tyrosinase inhibitor was formulated by F3 of 64.926 ± 0.090%. This study concludes that FEEP-5 and F4 are the best extract fractions and face serum formulas to be used as sunscreen and skin lighteners. In particular, FEEP-5 can be made into a face serum, such as emulgel, sunscreen, and skin lighteners.
References
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Nisa, R. U., A. U. Nisa, A. Y. Tantray, A. H. Shah, A. T. Jan, A. A. Shah, and I. A. Wani (2024). Plant Phenolics with Promising Therapeutic Applications Against Skin Disorders: A Mechanistic Review. Journal of Agriculture and Food Research, 16; 101090.
Panico, A., F. Serio, F. Bagordo, T. Grassi, A. Idolo, M. De Giorgi, M. Guido, M. Congedo, and A. De Donno (2019). Skin Safety and Health Prevention: An Overview of Chemicals in Cosmetic Products. Journal of Preventive Medicine and Hygiene, 60(1); E50–E57.
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Potey, L., V. Helonde, M. Durbude, and S. Farooqui (2023). A Review on Herbal Sunscreen. Journal of Drug Design and Research, 10(1); 1094
Rafiq, S., R. Kaul, S. A. Sofi, N. Bashir, F. Nazir, and G. Ahmad Nayik (2018). Citrus Peel as a Source of Functional Ingredient: A Review. Journal of the Saudi Society of Agricultural Sciences, 17(4); 351–358
Rajdev, P. S., S. D. Gaikwad, A. A. Somvanshi, and S. S. Gunjal (2022). Formulation and Evaluation of Face Serum. International Journal of Advanced Research in Science, Communication and Technology, 2(5); 255–259
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Sharma, P., T. Dhiman, R. S. Negi, A. OC, K. Gupta, J. S. Bhatti, and S. Thareja (2024). A Comprehensive Review of the Molecular Mechanisms Driving Skin Photoaging and the Recent Advances in Therapeutic Interventions Involving Natural Polyphenols. South African Journal of Botany, 166; 466–482
Sharma, R. R., A. Deep, and S. T. Abdullah (2022). Herbal Products as Skincare Therapeutic Agents Against Ultraviolet Radiation-Induced Skin Disorders. Journal of Ayurveda and Integrative Medicine, 13(1); 100500
Shejul, T. S. and K. Kudale (2023). Facial Serum: Its Formulation, Usage, Special Ingredients, Various Types and Benefits. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Research and Applications, 8(2); 680–692
Siti, H. N., S. Mohamed, and Y. Kamisah (2022). Potential Therapeutic Effects of Citrus hystrix DC and Its Bioactive Compounds on Metabolic Disorders. Pharmaceuticals, 15(2); 1–21
Wang, F., W. Ma, D. Fan, J. Hu, X. An, and Z. Wang (2024). The Biochemistry of Melanogenesis: An Insight Into the Function and Mechanism of Melanogenesis-Related Proteins. Frontiers in Molecular Biosciences, 11; 1–15
Widyastuti, W., E. Elmitra, E. S. Wardi, and D. Agustin (2024). Plectranthus scutellarioides (L.) R.Br. Leaf Extract as Sunscreen, Skin Lightening, and Antiaging. Science and Technology Indonesia, 9(3); 745–755
Widyastuti, W., D. P. Putra, S. W. Yenny, and A. Elliyanti (2023). In Vitro Study: Catechins as Depigmenting Agents Inhibit Melanogenesis on B16F0 Cells. Journal of Applied Pharmaceutical Science, 13(6); 237–245
Wijaya, Y. A., D. Widyadinata, W. Irawaty, and A. Ayucitra (2017). Fractionation of Phenolic and Flavonoid Compounds From Kaffir Lime (Citrus hystrix) Peel Extract and Evaluation of Antioxidant Activity. Reaktor, 17(3); 111
Zhao, Z., Y. Wang, M. Nian, H. Lv, J. Chen, H. Qiao, X. Yang, X. Li, X. Chen, X. Zheng, and S. Wu (2023). Citrus hystrix: A Review of Phytochemistry, Pharmacology, and Industrial Applications Research Progress. Arabian Journal of Chemistry, 16(11); 105236
Zolghadri, S., A. Bahrami, M. T. Hassan Khan, J. Munoz-Munoz, F. Garcia-Molina, F. Garcia-Canovas, and A. A. Saboury (2019). A Comprehensive Review on Tyrosinase Inhibitors. Journal of Enzyme Inhibition and Medicinal Chemistry, 34(1); 279–309
Arora, R., G. Aggarwal, G. A. Dhingra, and M. Nagpal (2019). Herbal Active Ingredients Used in Skin Cosmetics. Asian Journal of Pharmaceutical and Clinical Research, 12(9); 7–15.
Darsono, F. L., L. Soegianto, and M. A. Jessica (2024). Development of Standardized Kaffir Lime Fruit Peel Extract as a Gel for Antioxidant and Anti-Acne. Pharmaciana, 14(1); 57–68.
Desmiaty, Y., N. M. D. Sandhiutami, E. Mulatsari, F. A. Maziyah, K. Rahmadhani, H. O. Z. Algifari, and F. A. Jantuna (2024). Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Activity Through Inhibition of NF-kB and sEH of Some Citrus Peel and Phytoconstituent Characteristics. Saudi Pharmaceutical Journal, 32(2); 101959.
Donglikar, M. M. and S. L. Deore (2016). Sunscreens: A Review. Pharmacognosy Journal, 8(3); 171–179.
Fernando, W. W. B. P. and C. S. K. Rajapakse (2022). Pharmaceutical and Cosmeceutical Potential of Methanolic Extract of Kaffir Lime (Citrus hystrix) Leaves. Master's thesis, Faculty of Science, University of Kelaniya Sri Lanka.
Filho, J. M. T. d. A., P. A. Sampaio, E. C. V. Pereira, R. G. d. O. Júnior, F. S. Silva, J. R. G. d. S. Almeida, L. A. Rolim, X. P. Nunes, and E. C. d. C. Araújo (2016). Flavonoids as Photoprotective Agents: A Systematic Review. Journal of Medicinal Plants Research, 10(47); 848–864.
García-Nicolás, M., C. A. Ledesma-Escobar, and F. Priego-Capote (2023). Spatial Distribution and Antioxidant Activity of Extracts from Citrus Fruits. Antioxidants, 12; 781.
Gromkowska-Kepka, K. J., A. Puscion-Jakubik, R. Markiewicz-Zukowska, and K. Socha (2021). The Impact of Ultraviolet Radiation on Skin Photoaging: Review of in Vitro Studies. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 20; 3427–3431.
Guo, C., Y. Shan, Z. Yang, L. Zhang, W. Ling, Y. Liang, Z. Ouyang, B. Zhong, and J. Zhang (2020). Chemical Composition, Antioxidant, Antibacterial, and Tyrosinase Inhibition Activity of Extracts from Newhall Navel Orange (Citrus sinensis Osbeck cv. Newhall) Peel. Journal of the Science of Food and Agriculture, 100(6); 2664–2674.
Hanif, N., A. M. A. Al-Shami, K. A. Khalid, and H. A. Hadi (2020). Plant-Based Skin Lightening Agents: A Review. The Journal of Phytopharmacology, 9(1); 54–60.
Hassan, M., S. Shahzadi, and A. Kloczkowski (2023). Tyrosinase Inhibitors Naturally Present in Plants and Synthetic Modifications of These Natural Products as Anti-Melanogenic Agents: A Review. Molecules, 28(1); 378.
Irawaty, W. and A. Ayucitra (2015). Effect of Solvent Polarity on Antioxidant Activity During Fractionation of Ethanolic Extract of Citrus hystrix Peel. In The 3rd Bali International Seminar on Science and Technology (BISSTECH), pages 1–5.
Kumari, S., S. T. G. Thng, N. K. Verma, and H. K. Gautam (2018). Melanogenesis Inhibitors. Acta Dermato-Venereologica, 98(10); 924–931.
Liu, J. K. (2022). Natural Products in Cosmetics. Natural Products and Bioprospecting, 12(1); 1–43.
Lukman, L., N. Rosita, and R. Widyowati (2024). Assessment of Antioxidant Activity, Total Phenolic and Flavonoid Contents of Albizia saponaria L. Bark Extract. Science and Technology Indonesia, 9(2); 494–501.
Mankar, S. and S. Vaidya (2024). Review on Face Serum. Asian Journal of Pharmaceutics, 18(3); 740–759.
Mapoung, S., W. Semmarath, P. Arjsri, S. Umsumarng, K. Srisawad, P. Thippraphan, S. Yodkeeree, and P. Limtrakul (2021). Determination of Phenolic Content, Antioxidant Activity, and Tyrosinase Inhibitory Effects of Functional Cosmetic Creams Available on the Thailand Market. Plants, 10; 1383.
Masub, N. and A. Khachemoune (2022). Cosmetic Skin Lightening Use and Side Effects. Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 33(3); 1287–1292.
Mewada, R. and Y. Shah (2023). Recent Advances in Sunscreen Agents and Their Formulations: A Review. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Chemistry and Analysis, 9(4); 141–150.
Michalak, M., M. Pierzak, B. Kręcisz, and E. Suliga (2021). Bioactive Compounds for Skin Health: A Review. Nutrients, 13(1); 1–31.
Neha, K., M. R. Haider, A. Pathak, and M. S. Yar (2019). Medicinal Prospects of Antioxidants: A Review. European Journal of Medicinal Chemistry, 178; 687–704.
Neto, C. F. G., P. do Nascimento, V. C. da Silveira, A. B. N. de Mattos, and C. D. Bertol (2022). Natural Sources of Melanogenic Inhibitors: A Systematic Review. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 44(2); 143–153.
Nisa, R. U., A. U. Nisa, A. Y. Tantray, A. H. Shah, A. T. Jan, A. A. Shah, and I. A. Wani (2024). Plant Phenolics with Promising Therapeutic Applications Against Skin Disorders: A Mechanistic Review. Journal of Agriculture and Food Research, 16; 101090.
Panico, A., F. Serio, F. Bagordo, T. Grassi, A. Idolo, M. De Giorgi, M. Guido, M. Congedo, and A. De Donno (2019). Skin Safety and Health Prevention: An Overview of Chemicals in Cosmetic Products. Journal of Preventive Medicine and Hygiene, 60(1); E50–E57.
Portilho, L., L. M. Aiello, L. I. Vasques, E. Bagatin, and G. R. Leonardi (2022). Effectiveness of Sunscreens and Factors Influencing Sun Protection: A Review. Brazilian Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, 58; e20693.
Potey, L., V. Helonde, M. Durbude, and S. Farooqui (2023). A Review on Herbal Sunscreen. Journal of Drug Design and Research, 10(1); 1094
Rafiq, S., R. Kaul, S. A. Sofi, N. Bashir, F. Nazir, and G. Ahmad Nayik (2018). Citrus Peel as a Source of Functional Ingredient: A Review. Journal of the Saudi Society of Agricultural Sciences, 17(4); 351–358
Rajdev, P. S., S. D. Gaikwad, A. A. Somvanshi, and S. S. Gunjal (2022). Formulation and Evaluation of Face Serum. International Journal of Advanced Research in Science, Communication and Technology, 2(5); 255–259
Saleem, M., A. I. Durani, A. Asari, M. Ahmed, M. Ahmad, N. Yousaf, and M. Muddassar (2023). Investigation of Antioxidant and Antibacterial Effects of Citrus Fruits Peels Extracts Using Different Extracting Agents: Phytochemical Analysis with In Silico Studies. Heliyon, 9(4); e15433
Sharma, P., T. Dhiman, R. S. Negi, A. OC, K. Gupta, J. S. Bhatti, and S. Thareja (2024). A Comprehensive Review of the Molecular Mechanisms Driving Skin Photoaging and the Recent Advances in Therapeutic Interventions Involving Natural Polyphenols. South African Journal of Botany, 166; 466–482
Sharma, R. R., A. Deep, and S. T. Abdullah (2022). Herbal Products as Skincare Therapeutic Agents Against Ultraviolet Radiation-Induced Skin Disorders. Journal of Ayurveda and Integrative Medicine, 13(1); 100500
Shejul, T. S. and K. Kudale (2023). Facial Serum: Its Formulation, Usage, Special Ingredients, Various Types and Benefits. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Research and Applications, 8(2); 680–692
Siti, H. N., S. Mohamed, and Y. Kamisah (2022). Potential Therapeutic Effects of Citrus hystrix DC and Its Bioactive Compounds on Metabolic Disorders. Pharmaceuticals, 15(2); 1–21
Wang, F., W. Ma, D. Fan, J. Hu, X. An, and Z. Wang (2024). The Biochemistry of Melanogenesis: An Insight Into the Function and Mechanism of Melanogenesis-Related Proteins. Frontiers in Molecular Biosciences, 11; 1–15
Widyastuti, W., E. Elmitra, E. S. Wardi, and D. Agustin (2024). Plectranthus scutellarioides (L.) R.Br. Leaf Extract as Sunscreen, Skin Lightening, and Antiaging. Science and Technology Indonesia, 9(3); 745–755
Widyastuti, W., D. P. Putra, S. W. Yenny, and A. Elliyanti (2023). In Vitro Study: Catechins as Depigmenting Agents Inhibit Melanogenesis on B16F0 Cells. Journal of Applied Pharmaceutical Science, 13(6); 237–245
Wijaya, Y. A., D. Widyadinata, W. Irawaty, and A. Ayucitra (2017). Fractionation of Phenolic and Flavonoid Compounds From Kaffir Lime (Citrus hystrix) Peel Extract and Evaluation of Antioxidant Activity. Reaktor, 17(3); 111
Zhao, Z., Y. Wang, M. Nian, H. Lv, J. Chen, H. Qiao, X. Yang, X. Li, X. Chen, X. Zheng, and S. Wu (2023). Citrus hystrix: A Review of Phytochemistry, Pharmacology, and Industrial Applications Research Progress. Arabian Journal of Chemistry, 16(11); 105236
Zolghadri, S., A. Bahrami, M. T. Hassan Khan, J. Munoz-Munoz, F. Garcia-Molina, F. Garcia-Canovas, and A. A. Saboury (2019). A Comprehensive Review on Tyrosinase Inhibitors. Journal of Enzyme Inhibition and Medicinal Chemistry, 34(1); 279–309
Authors
Widyastuti, W., Elmitra, E., Shinta, D. Y. ., Verawati, V., & Afrianti, R. . (2025). Fractionation and Formulation of Face Serum from Citrus hystrix DC. Fruit Peel Extract as Sunscreen and Skin-Lightening. Science and Technology Indonesia, 10(1), 262–272. https://doi.org/10.26554/sti.2025.10.1.262-272
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